For the third time in four years, I was on a cruise that stopped for a day on the island of Roatan. And for the third straight time, I made a beeline for West Bay Beach - the place I’d been boldly calling the best beach snorkeling in the Caribbean. Unfortunately on this latest visit the weather didn’t cooperate. Cloudy skies with strong winds and below-normal temperatures combined to create poor conditions for snorkeling. I planned a full day at West Bay, even buying a day pass at Infinity Bay Resort that fronted the beach and offered the best reef access close to the south end. Luckily a pool and its adjacent lounge chairs were at my disposal because the beach chairs were in a wind tunnel. A dozen people were in the water, most of them snorkeling near the cliffs that bordered the south end of West Bay and that offered some shelter. The seas were certainly less choppy there but I was still frustrated by the poor visibility when I finally ...
I hadn’t been at Altun Ha long before a flock of squawking parrots shot overhead. Chris, one of our guides, identified them as olive-throated parakeets—birds I’d never seen before. I had entered the Mayan archaeological site already scanning the trees and had even photographed an American redstart near the restrooms. But the parakeets were the sort of tropical birds that had drawn me to Belize’s hot interior rather than to the breezy cays fringing the country’s coral reefs, a far shorter trip from my cruise ship. Surely, I thought, there must be trogons, manakins, euphonias, and even toucans in the surrounding jungle. View of Altun Ha ruins. There were indeed plenty of birds at Altun Ha. I found additional warblers besides the redstart—hooded, black-and-white, and magnolia—along with a white-eyed vireo. Several flycatchers called the park home, including great kiskadees, tropical kingbirds, and a third species that was either a dusky-capped or a brown-crested. A clay-c...