Snorkeling Santa Maria Cove Again

Back on the catamaran a fellow snorkeler commented that the water we had just exited was shockingly cold. I agreed. But I also noted to myself that the water temperature might have been the only big difference in my snorkeling adventure at Santa Maria Cove that day compared to the previous time I had visited the site.

Of course there were a few other contrasts in the visits. More than three years ago, I had visited on a morning tour off of the Ruby Princess anchored in Cabo San Lucas's bay. More recently, it was an afternoon outing off of the Majestic Princess, a much newer and larger ship in the cruise line's fleet.

The temperature difference was almost certainly because of the times of year for the visits: the first occasion in late November, this one in late February. While the weather seemed about the same - warm and sunny - apparently the winter season brings more dramatic changes to the sea, when the water reaches 70 degrees versus 80.

Despite the chilly water, the marine life was remarkably similar both times. Surgeonfish abounded in the forms of yellowfin and yellowtail, both easy to identify throughout my swim. Spotted boxfish, giant damselfish, and king angelfish populated the coral reef rimming the coastline. Trumpetfish hovered motionless below while Moorish idol darted in contrast nearby. Palenose parrotfish, orangeside triggerfish, and convict tangs brightened the seascape all around.

Once again, one particular parrotfish, the humphead, amazed me. I've never seen one anywhere else but there, in Santa Maria Cove, near Cabo San Lucas in the Sea of Cortez. And like three years ago, there were several roaming the reef, like a pack of dogs, seemingly following a large leader in tight formation. Their prominent, bulbous foreheads gave them the appearance of something unfish-like, maybe more like a mammal, perhaps even a whale.

Incidentally, like on my last visit, late February was still humpback whale season. And again, on the return to the port after snorkeling in the area, our catamaran encountered the ocean behemoths. As soon as our skipper located a spout, he immediately headed in its direction.

We had slowed to scan the area when a whale suddenly breached out of the sea on our port side. Screams of excitement roared from the passengers! I had to wonder if I was the only one thinking, a whale didn't breach for us last time!

Exactly like on my previous visit, we followed at least one pair for a mile or so along the coast, watching them dive and surface, observing their uniquely-notched backs and barnacle-crusted flukes break out of the water. There were no more breaches from either of those individuals, saving that once-in-a-lifetime moment for the next group of snorkelers.